The county of Sussex, now split in two, takes its name from the Kingdom
of South Saxons. Despite this being the location of the Norman invasion it’s
the Saxons that left their stamp on the counties names. I’d be starting my
journey through the twin counties in the west, where I’d also be returning UK
the Norman era.
Nestled amongst these hills was my West Sussex stopover, the small town
of Arundel, dominated by the oversized ramparts and towers of its Norman castle
& oversized catholic cathedral. As has become fairly routine now, I
discovered that everything was closed for the winter so I made do with a
leisurely stroll around the streets. The Main Street was lined with an enticing
array of quaint shops and eateries, all inexplicably bustling with German
tourists.
Just over the border into East Sussex is the city of Brighton. Marking
the end of the stretch of beaches Brighton developed as a fashionable seaside
resort convenient for London.
I parked up in a central multi-storey and exited into a modern shopping
complex which appeared to have no exits. I gave up and walked out from the car
parks exit ramp onto the promenade. The large hotels lining the seafront now
look very tired, not helped by the shell of one of Brighton’s piers, burned
down and sat in ruins off the beach. The remaining piece was undergoing
refurbishment but the amusement arcades and donut stands continued to do
business with the few windswept tourists.
I decided to have lunch in a more sheltered spot so headed up to the
Royal Pavilion. Built for King George IV who liked to visit the city, the
Pavilion brings a taste of India to the south coast with its ornate domes &
minarets. The gardens were not as peaceful as I’d hoped, the area was being
landscaped and a noisy digger was busy throbbing loudly in the background. I
looked back to the car via the eclectic and eccentric shops of The Lanes. I
didn’t want to spend too long as the parking charges would soon start to
skyrocket.
Continuing into East Sussex I was back on fairly familiar territory. As
a child my Grandma lived in Bexhill, the town I was now heading to, so a few
weeks in August were always set aside to visit. I remember the excitement of
hearing the seagulls and knowing the beach was near, the salty smell of the sea
and the warmth of the summer sun radiating from the pebbly beach. Today it most
definitely was not radiating warmth, a biting wind whipped up the promenade and
the seagulls were busy fighting over a discarded kebab. I’d come to visit the
De La Warr Pavilion, an Art Deco arts centre on the sea front. My grandfather
wired the lighting and my dad used to proudly show me the chandelier in the
buildings rotunda, I’d come to see if it was still there. The building was much
smaller than I’d remembered, but I guess most things seem big to a seven year
old. Indeed everything was how I remembered it, albeit in diminished
proportion.
The towns along this stretch of coastline are not unfamiliar with conflict;
it was here that in 1066 William the Conqueror led the Norman invasion of
Britain. Just a few years later an impressive castle was built guarding the
large harbour at Hastings. The town’s prosperity took a downward turn in the
1200s when a large storm completely blocked the harbour with shingle forcing
the port to be relocated. This could have spelled the end to the town but for a
surprising twist. The new land where the harbour once stood was not listed on
any land registry for the country, it fell outside the government’s control. A
shantytown of people flocked to take advantage of this tax free no man’s land. Eventually
in the 1800s the government took action and tried to remove this den of
smugglers. The defiant residents simply raised the Stars & Stripes pledging
allegiance to the United States, the America Ground was born! Today the shanty
town has been replaced by a nondescript shopping street, but an American flag
still flies proudly over the area.
The sun was beginning to colour the sky a vivid golden to I jumped back
in the car to the nearby Beachy Head, a prominent chalky headland. From the top
the view was fantastic, ending the day in style. The rays of sun broke through
the cloud dancing on the calm sea. Now I’d better get on the phone and let my
family know I’m in the area or there’ll be trouble when they find out I stayed
here without visiting!
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| Arundel Castle |
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| Brighton's Royal Pavilion |
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| Brighton Pier |
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| The De La Warr Pavilion, Bexhill |
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| Hastings |
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| Sunset from Beachy Head |
